Although new restaurants pop up regularly in Exmouth Market, well-established Moro still has the edge, serving quality Spanish/North African food that is cooked simply and presented with a twist. Staff were as relaxed as the setting. You can sit inside, perched on a stool at the bar or at a table, or outside, and order from the tapas menu or the grill, or both. The plain interior can be noisy when full.
All our dishes pleased, from garlicky boquerones with crusty bread, to tender chargrilled squid coated in harissa; the latter came with fresh broad beans, rocket and pea shoots in a delightfully tangy preserved lemon and coriander dressing. Simple-sounding mains of wood-roasted chicken, pork or fish, and charcoal-grilled wild salmon or lamb chops, are raised to dizzy heights, if our choice was typical. Perfectly grilled mullet fillet, with a sensational creamy dressing of yoghurt, dill, black sesame seeds and chilli, arrived on a bed of lentils with wonderfully light, tempura-battered cucumber.
The Spanish-oriented wine list is helpfully divided by style (crisp and dry, fruity, and so on), and includes plenty of sherries, dessert wines and ports, even Jerez brandies. But on a hot summer lunchtime, most diners were opting for glasses of cooling lemonade.